“I’m going to Sao Tome and Principe”
“Where on earth is that? I’ve never heard of it.”
That was the reaction from my friends when I told them about my travel plans. I’d picked an obscure holiday destination, not the usual for the average Brit! In a nutshell, Sao Tome and Principe is a small African island nation located in the Gulf of Guinee. The country gained independence in 1975 after centuries under Portuguese rule.
After a hop from Manchester to Lisbon, it was a six-and-a-half hour flight to the warm equatorial climes of Sao Tome, the main island. The first stop is Principe, the much smaller partner with a fraction of the population. Principe is a 40 minute flight in a small passenger plane from Sao Tome, or a 14 hour ferry crossing if you’re feeling adventurous or reckless!
The tiny airport is a testament to the island’s remoteness. The good quality road doesn’t last for long, and there’s an abundance of greenery everywhere on this lush, equatorial speck of land.
My home on Principe was Roca Sundy. Once a plantation owner’s home, it’s been turned into a small hotel, filled with colonial features. Dinner is served on the rear veranda and ceiling fans gently whir throughout. A sumptuous bolthole that I fell in love with.
The house is surrounded by cacao plantation buildings, which have fallen into disrepair. Just a small operation now gathers the raw materials and makes them into high quality chocolate, which tastes out of this world.
It was time to explore principe, along with a Roca Sundy guide and driver. Essential stops included the view over Praia Banana, a perfect ‘desert island discs’ beach, framed by turquoise waters and dense forest. Up in the hills overlooking the Atlantic is another plantation property called Belo Monte, exuding luxury for those who make the long journey here.
A trip to Santo Antonio, the islands old city (more of a sleepy, slightly larger-than-usual village), was a highlight. Here I found decaying colonial architecture, zany pastel paintwork and languid inhabitants.
Absolutely, and I’d recommend it to anyone looking to break away from the usual holiday destinations.
The northern half of Principe is where most of the islanders live. The southern half is ruggedly mountainous and was declared a biosphere reserve a decade ago. The best way to view this spectacular volcanic landscape is by boat in the Bay of Needles, a coastal area studded with pristine little beaches.
Follow us online